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October 23, 2018, 11:40:28 AM

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Boat trailer carpet boards  (Read 2223 times)
Lunker
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Posts: 144


What should be the expected life of new trailer carpet bunks/boards?
Mine have rotted enough that the screws are coming out and the boards are no longer connected to the trailer in some places.



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I used to average four or five years. Then i started using stainless or zinc coated bolts and & lock nuts instead of lag screws and time has increased. Seemed like the screws would rust and that kinda rotted the wood and screws would come loose. Don't have that problem with bolts. Use those lock nuts with the nylon inserts and everything stays together. If you have an aluminum boat, don't used treated lumber. The stuff they use to treat the wood can react with aluminum.



Last Edit: October 01, 2014, 10:50:05 AM by DavidP

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Lunker
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Posts: 144


well, it's only been 3 summers for me Sad
it's a fiberglass boat - so treated lumber should be ok?

I was also wondering if maybe some of that composite deck material would be a better choice for the board instead??

I will certainly go with the bolts and lock nuts - makes sense.

any certain/special carpet recommendations?



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I have read that it is best not to use treated lumber for trailer bunk supports for any brand boat but especially not for aluminum boats. Water is the culprit for wood rotting. For side drive on guides any outdoor carpet should work. For bottom support drive-on boards, it is recommended to use an astroturf type material or regular bunk board nylon carpet strips. They sell em at Academy. These will not hold moisture against the wood very long as they do not absorb water.




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There is something about treated wood and galvanized bolts.  Long ago I read something about some sort of chemical reaction that is no beuno or something like that.  Don't remember the details.  Like DavidP mentioned used different kinds of bolts.



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Sure do like that THUMP!



Good stuff!!
Thanks guys
 
 



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Lunker
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Posts: 144


davidp...

I'm curious as to exactly how to carpet the bunks and also allow for a bolt to go thru.

Do you use some type of adhesive glue to keep the carpet tight on the top (boat side) of the board that will have the head of the bolt.?

With a carpeted bunk that is only screwed in from the bottom, the entire top portion of the bunk is carpet and there is no holes for the carpet to pull or tear. It seems as if the carpet might pull or tear once you have a hole in it to allow a wrench to hold the head of the bolt while you tighten the bottom locking nut.

This is my first time replacing my carpet bunks and I was hoping to do it as correctly as possible and use and of the knowledge gained here. I have a total of 6 bunk boards on my trailer. 1 pair is about 6', 1 pair is about 9' and the last pair is about 9 1/2'. I really don't want to screw it up and have to scrap any of the material.

Any further advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Reggie



Last Edit: October 06, 2014, 11:49:19 AM by reggier
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I don't use any glue as it will eventually not hold and makes a mess. I assume your 2 x 4 supports are flat or angled and not vertical which would allow for a bolt to go thru. So what I have done is to drill hole thru 2 x 4 where bolt will go thru. Usually a 1/4 inch bolt as that is more than enuf. Use carriage bolts and put on a 1/4 flat washer close to the bolt head. Now that holes are drilled, counter sink the holes with a spade bit making a hole wide enuf to hold the washer deep enuf to let the bolt head be slightly less than flush with the uper surface of 2 x 4.

Now take the bunk material and stretch tightly over the 2 x 4 and use a staple gun to attached carpet. Could also use short roofing nails if'n ya want. Now put hole thru the carpet just big enuf for the bolts. Use ice pick, drill or whatever. Now place the 2 x 4 on brackets, put carriage bolt with washer thru carpet/hole, thru bracket & attach with another washer & locknt. Only tighten the bolt so the carriage head & washer are firmly in place. If not below surface, you can usually tighten some more and the bolt will sink into the soft wood. Since the bolt head is counter sunk it will not scratch the boat. Or could just use lag screws from bottom but they wont last long. I also use the bolts and counter sink them on my side drive on rails, no scratch boat either.

Job done.




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Lunker
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Posts: 144


Thank You Sir... EXACTLY what I was hoping for and just how I would have thought to do it. I'm expecting the washer on top to hold down the bunk material and stop if from fraying/tearing.

Thank You very much for sharing your experience and expertise with me/us.




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